A Kiwi-Poly in the Big Apu

I always knew I would find myself in New York at some point in my life, and here I am amidst the hustle and bustle, soaking up everything this magnificent city has to offer.

Being from Aotearoa with Samoan blood, I find myself among the very small percentage of Pasifika people in New York. Though the Big Apple is undoubtedly one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world, the island presence is somewhat scarce. 

When confronted with the questions I'm so frequently asked; “Where are you from?” and “What are you?”, I’m no longer surprised at the lack of familiarity with our corner of the world. Many people are still under the impression New Zealand is a part of Australia, and the majority have no perception of the pacific islands at all, unless I use Hawai’i as a reference.

  

Explaining Aotearoa, the islands and my mixed ethnicity is always something I have to go into depth with, and usually people are interested enough to keep listening. Though admittedly, being distinct in this city is a special feeling, it definitely highlights the vast differences in culture and attitudes. Our Kiwi/Islander slang is often misinterpreted in conversation. Words and phrases like “mean as”, “do you reckon” and “hard out” always raise a few eyebrows. 

After a while, I can say with confidence that what I miss the most is the culture I belong to, both from Aotearoa and my Island roots. I miss the people and our very specific dry and savage humor. I miss the food, I miss our beautiful landscapes, I miss the OCEAN, and right now in the midst of winter, I am missing the sun. 

Nevertheless, I am LOVING this city and the nonstop whirlwind it carries. On my travels, I discovered a few Pasifika-esque foodie features, I overcame the daunting subway and I found some awesome Pasifika art and taonga too. 

First things first; TARO!

Suggested to have originated form southern or Southeast Asia, and to have been dispersed to Oceania, I discovered an incredible taro culture in the Korean and Japanese sections of the city.

In the rush of Koreatown, Manhattan, I found a boutique dessert store Besfren that offered taro ice cream and a “Taro Teapuccino”, both iced and served hot.

 The flavor was odd and not easily explained unless you taste it yourself, I would describe it as nutty, starchy, milky and mildly sweet all at once. Definitely not the taro I’m used to, slathered in coconut milk and served with chop suey, but still awesome experiencing the plant in a new form.

While eating out at various Asian eateries like Vietnamese, Thai and Japanese, almost every drink menu served a taro iced tea, or taro bubble tea. The starchy taro flavor was the same, but this time with tapioca balls swimming in the bottom of the iced drink.

My next stop was to Mei Li Wah in Chinatown where I found fresh pork buns aka our beloved keke pua’a and a version of island pineapple pie. The tiny bakery was crammed with patrons and after taking a bite of my fresh baked goods, I discovered why this spot was so popular.

The pineapple bun was a mouth-watering variation of pineapple paifala, with sweet warm bread and creamy pineapple custard inside. The pork buns, both steamed and baked were equally as delicious, everything you could ask from a humble pork bun. The best thing about Mei Li Wah was the price at just $1 per bun.

My next stop took me to East Harlem, where I tried my first ever Hawaiian barbeque. Makana BBQ & Poke is a Hawaiian and Japanese fusion eatery. I ordered the Kalua Pork Bowl which included slow roast pork wrapped in banana leaves and grilled pineapple. Served on rice or greens, this dish definitely induced some island nostalgia.

For something sweet I ordered a classic Hawaiian dessert, Haupia Coconut Pudding. A creamy coconut custard with graham crackers and chocolate ganache at the base. The Pasifika vibe in the store was cool with tiki prints and wooden carvings on the walls and in the bathrooms.

One thing about New York that is undoubtedly superior to home is the subway system. I have never been so impressed with the cost and ease of public transport. It took me a couple of days to familiarize myself with the system, and I found using Google maps really took the stress out of navigation. A 7-day unlimited MetroCard pass ($32.00) means you can catch as many trains as you like, which is great as it's likely you’ll catch the wrong line a few times while getting used to it!

The various burrows around New York each have a unique vibe to them, and exploring these places is both exciting and informative. Some great museums to visit with Pasifika features include the Metropolitan Museum of Art and The American Museum of Natural History.

I was fortunate enough to visit the Pasifika vault inside The American Museum of Natural History thanks to renound artist Rosanna Raymond (pictured below in her activation attire) and an amazing team working at the museum. Very few 21st century eyes had witnessed these ancient taonga, some over 200 years old, and the experience was both a magnificent and mournful one. Historically, informal visits to this side of the museum was something that hadn’t been previously possible.

The quality and authenticity of these items was incredible, I had never seen ‘ie Tōga weaved so finely, or hyper realistic Māori heads carved with such intricacy. The Pacific section we were in had been dedicated to storage in the 80’s, all of the items were labeled and carefully protected.

After we spent some time viewing the collection, Jahra Wasasala, Keke Brown and Rosanna Raymond each performed in the space, an activation to give thanks and recognition to the taonga. I watched from the aisle with a few members of Museum staff, and afterwards we sat to give thanks for the opportunity.

I remain in two minds about our taonga living so far from our shores. On the one hand, I appreciate the sharing of culture and knowledge. How else would communities on opposite ends of the earth be informed about the Pacific? I will forever treasure the experience. 

There is no end to the places to see and people to meet in the Big Apple. Ice-skating in the winter, a party boat around the Statue of Liberty, endless rooftop bars and restaurants, shows and music night life; New York is a never-ending Ferris wheel with new things and people getting on and off all the time.

Even with no specific itinerary, you can wander the streets and create unforgettable memories. Being here, my eyes have most definitely been opened to the range of personalities and cultures, and I’m immensely grateful for the opportunity to be having this experience.